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Samsung dryer not heating: which of 3 parts to test first

Safety first. Unplug the dryer (or switch off its breaker) before you open any panel. Electric dryers run on 240 V and can still be dangerous with the controls off. On a gas dryer, also shut off the gas supply valve. If you smell gas, don't touch switches. Leave and call your gas utility. If you aren't comfortable using a multimeter, call a qualified technician.

Before you test anything

The 3 parts to test, in order

1. Thermal fuse (test first)

This one-time safety fuse opens if the dryer overheats. It's usually easy to reach and quick to check. With the power off, disconnect it and check continuity with a multimeter. A good fuse shows continuity; an open fuse doesn't. If it has blown, find out why (usually a restricted vent) before you replace it, or the new one will blow too. Never bypass a thermal fuse.

2. Heating element (electric models)

The coil that makes the heat. Check it for continuity, and look for a visibly broken coil. An element with no continuity needs replacing. Compare any resistance reading with the value in your model's service manual or tech sheet. We don't list resistance values because they vary by model.

3. High-limit thermostat / thermistor

These sensors control or cut off heat based on temperature. Check the high-limit thermostat for continuity at room temperature. A thermistor's resistance changes with temperature, so compare it against your model's spec chart.

Gas Samsung dryers

The thermal fuse comes first here too. After that, the usual suspects are the igniter, the flame sensor, and the gas valve coils, not a heating element. Because gas is involved, we suggest a qualified technician for gas-valve work.

Still no heat?

If all three parts test good, the problem may be in the wiring, the timer/control board, or (electric) the house power supply. At that point, a technician or your model's service manual is the next step.

General diagnostic guidance only, not specific to any single model. Not affiliated with Samsung.